Thats a really great question, and very useful experiences of bespoke too. There isnt necessarily a third fitting, but there will usually be one or two small things that its worth refining if its your first suit. I have received and worn the suit, and can highly recommend it. Im glad to say that this promise is fulfilled. Suit looks great and fantastic value, how would you say this would compare to Edward Sexton made to measure which is slightly more expensive. Permanent Style is the UK authority on classic and luxury menswear. Thanks for this Simon. Located in a charming building in the heart of Mayfair, just off Savile Row and Conduit Street. . Thanks as always, In London, just them and city tailors like Graham Browne. Similarly for General Eyewear, great guys and i am very happy with the end result. Edge tapes, hems and linings are completely felled by hand. Today I met with Tim Everest, W&S, C&D, and Gieves & Hawkes. I tried them at home but was not convinced, so i went back in and saw a third fitter (not sure where they get people from when John is not available) who agreed they were too baggy, and alterations were appropriately made. Im a younger guy and as much as I dislike the contempary extremes Im a big fan of thoms style. This kind of service level is something that can quickly drop out with cheaper offerings. I hope someday to access (and afford) some pure Neapolitan tailoring but in our globalized world, even from a post-modern perspective purity is a questionable concept regardless. I havent Im afraid apart from Luxire part of the problem is theres a lot of them so its hard to say anything comprehensive. Although given how many issues tailors have had over the past 30 years (particularly changing business models or cutters so youre relationship goes out the window) I think theyve got as much chance of staying around as anyone. Just what Im looking for. Like this article? But then youre paying over twice the price. Our coats are fully handmade with floating canvases. Am I safe to give them full and total control and have the suit made in their house style, or will I end up regretting it? Thanks Do you mind me asking what make your glasses are? How would you compare W&S to Steven Hitchcock based on style and quality? They seem stylistically similar (soft w some drape), and affordable. Just one point on pricing. And would you recommend stretching out a bit more and getting full bespoke from Anderson Sheppard (5,700 I think) or do you think it would be better to get W&S or Huntsman? HB, In some ways, yes, though the structure etc is different and the value itself even better too. Bravo! People even complain when they find out some of the work is being done just off Carnaby Street, rather than in a basement off Savile Row. Fit is very good and I find the level of make and finishing not too far behind my other English bespoke suits. There are cheap Neapolitan tailors coming to London use them instead if thats the look you want. Thanks for your blog Simon! Trousers Read More Heavy brown Brisbane Moss cords Trousers Read More The T-shirt under a shirt (and tailoring) Casual clothing Read More The style of a belted wrap coat - with Whit. Im all for casting a wider net but lets keep it in the round. I agree building a relationship is a big part of it, yes. Wondered if you had any thoughts ? For example, can the lapel width (not shape necessarily) be extended slightly? Ive had a few suits made in Hong Kong in the past but am thinking of a step into English bespoke or MTM however I dont really want to spend more than say 1500 as I want to leave budget for bespoke shirts (just placed my first T and A order) but how would you compare this suit with a MTM from Thom Sweeney which is around the same price? I am a doctor trust and confidence is my core value. I appreciate that both of these are at the low-end of bespoke service, so perhaps my expectations were to high, being first-time bespoke? The idea was to empower women and make them the primary wage earners in their families. By the way, do you know whats the price at W&S for a Classic Bespoke tweed jacket? A Graham Browne suit and a Huntsman suit are traditional, structured English suits. A similar question. I am not sure what it is made of but it is soft and plush. However, they didnt provide much design input during the process, and i really had to manage and push the project along. Our bespoke suits are made without compromise by the best craftsmen in Savile Row. Great width and shape of the lapels with a nice roll, and well balanced gorge (dont you think the modern gorge placement is too high?). So I would go to Sexton for their style, and to Whitcomb for theirs. Simon. I mentioned it as a collar gap to Zizolfi after the first one and we thought we had resolved it at the fitting but when I wore it a couple of times, I saw the same issue again. 4,523 followers. The navy cloth appeared to be the same toile fabric as W&S had used for my baste fitting, as the correct cloth was out of stock and the toile helped us to progress without waiting. Normally I would have ordered the suit at the weight I normally am, not the higher weight. Richard, Hi Simon Hi, Get the Robb Report newsletter for similar stories delivered straight to your inbox. So essentially the questions are: I certainly couldnt see it in any of the fittings but its the exact same thing with both tailors. Perhaps a little collection of posts around the issue would be good. As a more extreme example how does it compare to your C&M and Cifonelli suits: if you say its nearly as good that may change everything!! Like all English pretty much, its just too sharp and structured. As has been mentioned, your tie is stunning, but sadly it doesnt feature in Drakes current line up. Congrats on the blog. Thanks Simon. I worry, however, that they might be a bit expensive. This is a part of a series on a pair of bespoke trousers made for me by the tailor house Whitcomb & Shaftesbury. Wearing something expressly created for ones body and mind is an intoxicating luxury. Apologies if this is an obvious question. around 3000 but entirely made by them)? I really like the dramatic asymmetry in your tie knots. Would be nice to see W&S in the style breakdown series. This is slightly out of my budget. I must say that I sincerely couldnt be more pleased. I question, upon reflection, if you can go to Spain and Italy (and India via W & S) might we see a time when you take into consideration the many fine UK tailors at points outside of London. The word yachting as well as the concept itself came into our vocabulary quite recently. Interestingly, there is also quite a lot of drape to the chest something I like on my Anderson & Sheppard suits both for their comfort and impression of a bigger upper body. So the variation in style is house to house, rather than cutter to cutter. Having said that moreso that the fit quality shines through. Location makes no difference to me, but if you want it you can pay 1,700 for the privilege. Id suggest using a shop you can visit and have more of a relationship with for MTM trousers. But as I live in Geneva, and Varese would not be such a long drive from here, would Sartoria Vergallo also be a great option for high-end bespoke at relatively good prices? Every hem and lining felled by hand, buttonhole sewn with silk and trouser hand-sewn with curtained waistbands. Alex Natt. Important stitching unfinished and then came undone. After much internet research and reading your recommendation I have taken the plunge with W&S. Eventually, in a visit to London last summer, I had W & S make me a versatile grey flannel three-piece and I was extremely pleased: absolutely wonderful cut and fit, and exquisite hand finishing. I also havent asked about those kind of changes, so Im not sure. The result may be due to specifics in my case. Do you recommend against a tuxedo as a first commission from a tailor? That makes more sense. I am split between Graham Browne and Whitcomb. I mean look how they photographed those models. LOVABLE BROGUE. Predominantly a Savile Row style or do they stray into Neapolitan construction as well? 11 St. George Street is a throwback to more elegant times. How do you find out whether a certain off row tailor is really good? Thank you, As a general rule Id want to see the cutter, but in this case Id make an exception, given Bob and everyone else have worked so closely together for a long time. Was planning to do so with W&S during their next trunk show. If you are having custom-made clothes made for you, then they are bespoke. Any unique creation is possible from designing your own fabric to printing a customized lining, you can play designer, or you can sit back and let us create a masterpiece for you, enjoying the elegance and style that has come to represent British tailoring. Thanks for advice. I wonder if you could tell me, from your experience, about the rough timeframe of this process. One of the reasons rate Whitcomb is the presence of cutter John McCabe. Advice on prospective colour would be welcome! Should the button and buttonhole align when the jacket is unbuttoned? There are a few things you can look for to tell if a suit is bespoke:Firstly, bespoke suits will always be made from premium materials. 829 posts. Youre really in the market for made to measure, not bespoke. The chest, lapel and collar are still hand-padded; the buttonholes are finely hand-stitched; every other area of finishing youd expect from Savile Row bespoke (eg hand-stitching the lining of the waistband) is there. It looks a really nice sturdy twill from the picture. Thanks Chris, thats always helpful, and yes absolutely, aware of how beneficial it would be. Incidentally, did you get a second (or third) pair of pants made and if so, what was the additional cost? They wont move the button or buttonhole, but they might open the shoulder seam and pick one side up slightly. From left, Suresh Ramakrishnan, John McCabe, Bob Bigg and Mahesh Ramakrishnan. On the style questions, eg pockets, have you looked through the Suit Style series of posts? I think partly it is because you were at the slightly lower end of the bespoke spectrum. Sian and John work so closely together at W&S that I dont think it will make any difference. More insightful would be a personal perspective on how your relationship with bespoke has evolved with time/experience. Both Suresh and Mahesh will be touring the U.S. between November 16 and December 1, visiting New York, Washington D.C., Boston, Los Angeles and then returning to New York. This site is protected by reCAPTCHA Enterprise and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply. They are very different prices, qualities and styles. The entire team was excellent and I await the return of their overseas visits. Ultimately, the tailor will be chosen to suit my budget. And great work on the site, a unique and reliable resource! Would you have any advice for what I should ask for if you dont think their house style fits with that criteria? In this article, Linus will be reviewing the final product of the trousers. And affordable the entire team was excellent and i find the level of make and not! 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